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Home World New Zealand

Taking the time for the road less travelled

26 March 2024
in New Zealand
Taking the time for the road less travelled
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Regular readers will know my fondness for tasting and drinking widely so today’s wonderful selection was right up my alley.

Chenin Blanc & Pinot Blanc have been around the scene for years.

Yet still they have been restricted to a dedicated band of wineries.

Grüner Veltliner and Albariño are relative newcomers, with the latter in particular really riding a wave.

Pinot Noir Rosé is not uncommon of course, but this version adds its own twist, while St Laurent is produced by only four, or perhaps five producers. Enjoy the mix!

2020 St Clair Pioneer Block 28 Camp Block Pinot Blanc

 

Rating Excellent

 

Boldly fragrant, peach, 

stonefruit, smoke, 

perhaps mango and 

salinity too? Sensing 

richness. Powerful 

fruit leads, fat and rich 

in the mouth, before a 

touch of fruit pith adds 

to the texture bringing 

chewiness and 

dryness. Stone fruits 

now, perhaps banana 

skin, a nutty/cashew 

nut element at its core, 

palate weight at its 

heart with the acidity 

and chewiness a foil. 

Rather good.

 

 

2022 Forrest Marlborough Chenin Blanc 

 

Rating Very Good to Excellent

 

Gunflint, stewed apple, 

straw, citrus, lightly 

honeyed. A fascinating 

grainy aspect 

enhances the texture, a 

backdrop to the 

interplay between fruit 

sweetness and zesty 

acidity, while a surge of 

granny smith apple 

frames the close. The 

struck match reduction 

more evident with time, 

the honey on the nose 

joins the finish. With its 

bright acidity a great 

foil for creamy dishes.

 

 

2023 Yealands Estate S.V Awatere Valley Albarino

 

Rating Excellent to Outstanding

 

The nose bounds out 

of the glass, peach, 

wood smoke, a 

skerrick of herb, apricot 

later…more about the 

sum of the parts. Nose 

suggests fatness but 

the palate contrasts 

that with a powerful 

core of acidity, lending 

a tingly quality. Stony 

minerals, citrus on a 

backdrop of stonefruits 

with a long, cool racy 

close. Drive and 

vibrancy, an impact 

wine, ready to 

complement food.

 

 

2023 Riverby Estate S.V Marlborough Gruner Veltliner

 

Rating Excellent to Outstanding

 

Beguiling nose, ripe 

peach, rose’s lime 

cordial, pencil lead, 

spice, a peppery 

influence. Delightfully 

creamy palate fills the 

mouth, richness & 

textural impact, all the 

while balanced and 

integrated with crispness 

and chewy touches. 

Searching for specific 

flavours is superfluous 

here, as it charms so 

well as a whole. Full of 

flavour, simply lovely.

 

 

2023 Two Paddocks Organic Central Otago Pinot Noir Rosé 

 

Rating Excellent to Outstanding

 

Deeper colour than the 

current trend. The nose 

swells with fruit jube, 

dried strawberry, cherry 

and an attractive savoury 

quality. The palate takes 

those notes and ramps 

them up, savoury 

aspects evident, adding 

plum and a whisper of 

peppery spice, 

pomegranate & cranberry 

later. Fruit sweetness, 

snapped into line by crisp 

acidity. A crossover into 

light red territory. 

Delicious.

 

 

2022 Forrest Marlborough St Laurent

 

Rating Excellent

 

Deep and dark, 

smoky, savoury 

qualities to the fore, 

darker fruits, a touch 

of bramble, cranberry 

and perfume with air. 

Sweeter fruits in the 

mouth, red fruits and 

raspberry, lead pencil, 

juicy, tangy, lively 

with real freshness on 

the close. The nose 

grows significantly 

with aeration, exuding 

richness, while its 

latent power and fine 

chewy tannins are on 

show. Impressive.

 



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